SICGMONE

Movenpick Hotel in Accra ( Ghana)

This year I had the opportunity to represent Shades of Noir, part of University of the Arts London at Ghana fashion and Design Week, from the 11- 13^th October in Accra. The location was the luxury Movenpick Hotel in the city of Accra. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but looked forward to witnessingwhat this year’s designers and exhibitors had to offer to the African fashion market.

Wooden interiors and paintings in entrance

SEMINARS

The first days of the shows I signed up to the free morning seminars led by Yvonne Niatomoah, the head of Fashion at Radford College university, based in Accra. The focus topic was the importance of Fashion and Design Education – How, Where, and what to do. Some important issues were covered during the debate for example the need for students to understand all areas of fashion from design, styling and trend forecasting in order to push the industry forward and more innovation needed amongst the new generation of Ghanaian designers. After the seminar I had an opportunity to interview Yvonne on her experiences of working in the Ghanaian fashion industry.

Yvonne Ntimoah
Head of Fashion

Illustrations by student Papa Opong (Radford College)

Interview: Yvonne Ntiamoah
What is your design background and how did you become the head of fashion at Radford College?
Well I graduated from the University College of the Creative arts at Epsom, Surrey with a BA (Hons) in fashion design. After graduating I worked as a designer in London for a few years, working for various labels such as Vivienne Westwood and Red or Dead. I also set up two companies Konadu and La Mack London.

I relocated to Ghana a few years ago and was asked to help with the fashion design course outline at Radford College, Radford is the first university to offer fashion at a degree level in Ghana. After working with the first year students for a few months, I really wanted to see them progress further. So when I was offered the position of head of the fashion department I decided I had to take it.

Who were your mentors growing up?

Growing up I had many mentors my Grandma and also my Auntie who was the first real designer I knew. She wore very different clothes, and really inspired me. From then on I started to experiment with making my own clothes and designing. That was when my passion for designing really began at the age of nine.

What do you think of the Shades of Noir concept?
I really admire the shades of noir concept and I am glad that this issue is being addressed within higher education and design institutions. Having studied in a London fashion school it’s definitely something that you noticed, the lack of role models of colour from lectures and industry leaders. Hopefully unions such as shades of noir, that are raising awareness about this issue will inspire the next generation of designers and we will slowly see significant changes within the fashion and design industry.

What is your hope for the future of African fashion and your students?

My main hope is that African designers will begin to sell their ideas to the international market and will begin to take more innovative risks. In terms of the Ghanaian market I believe that the textile industry needs to start supporting the local designers here, that is the only way the fashion industry will progress further. For years we have been printing the same designs on cotton, why not experiment with different kinds of material such as leather, Lycra or PVC.

I believe that education is key and that teaching my students that having a degree in fashion will give them the knowledge and technical skills to survive in this industry.

Catwalk Shows

Shows- Day 1 & 2

(All images were taken on my canon 600D)

Blogger from Ghana Chad a videographer from Calafornia

Wearing my s.kludje necklace, arriving at the shows

Necklace by designer Christie brown

Blogger from Shadders Africa & Diana Opoti Guests from China

CATWALK SHOWS

AJEMPOMAA DESIGNS GALLERY & MODELLA B

Colour blocking on the catwalk with Ajempomaa Designs Gallery

Modella B

Modella B

Long printed dresses and lace details by Nigerian based label Modella B

TRISH O COUTURE

Trish O Couture

Trish O Couture's womenswear collection included floating skirt and waistband details, also lace combined with printed fabric on the garments.

1981 & AMEYO

Women's wear label 1981 showcased their second collection for Ghana fashion week entitled "layers". Focusing on the concept of layers found in architecture and modern design. This contemporary womenswear collection led by creative director Nana Kweku Brenu combined the use of jersey against finer silk fabrics. Very minimalist but intricately crafted and tailored for the modern women. The collection showcased a neutral palette with pops of bright magenta and yellow.

I loved the simplicity of these pieces.

1981

Ameyo

The label Ameyo had a black/white theme with leather details on the dresses and jackets. I really admired the organic prints used throughout the collection.

Simple Sculptured gold and black Jewellery designs on the catwalk by London based jeweller Emefa Cole.

HOUSE OF MARIE

House of Marie

The black and white trend continued with the collection by the House of Marie. Again the use of leather against the black and white prints was very effective. My favourite piece was a kaleidoscope digital printed dress; this definitely took a lot of the attention on the catwalk.

TUEDOR & WRIGHT

Tuedor & Wright

Tuedor & Wright

Hertfordshire based label Tuedor & Wright took inspiration from Japanese street style and West Africa for their womeswear collection. The bold silhouettes, use of Ankara fabric and tye- dye techniques on jackets and jumpers, added a colorful contrast as models took to the catwalk. The detailed illustrated white t- shirts added a fun, casual twist to this collection. Definitely one of my highlights on the catwalk.

SARAH AMA DUAH

Collection by Sarah Ama Duah

Lastly one of my favourite collections over the two days was by German/Ghanaian designer Sarah Ama Duah. Her collection was entitled "mold." Her collection included knitted garments worn in layers and detached sleeves with honeycomb knitted structures. An interesting piece from the collection was a cobalt blue knitted outfit with the sleeves draped separately from the models arms; there were lots of interesting compositions used in this catwalk show. The garments were more like moving artistic objects; I interviewed Sarah to find out more about the concept behind this innovative collection.

What was the inspiration/ concept behind your collection for Ghana fashion and design week?

I thought of inner structures. like unrealised ideas, wishes and thoughts that you can carry inside for a long time. My collection starts when they become visible on the surface, I translated them into knitwear structures. In this project I wanted to work with something old and something new, I collected the knitwear clothes from vintage markets and combined them with new fabrics to create my own material.

Who were your mentors growing up?

I was very lucky that I had a mum who gave me the space to find out what I want to do, without pushing me into a direction. She always supported my creativity and during my studies until now, there is Prof. Viktoria Greiter. She is my mentor and I learned a lot from her. She has a very sensitive and
innovative perspective of designing and that had a huge impact on my way of working.

Where do you see the future of your brand ?
Right now i am not a label. In this Phase i work from the fashion perspective, where my priority is to refer to the human body and to create something that can be "worn".

But i also love to stage my "dresses" as objects . I have an artistic approach to fashion and i am not sure where this will take me, but i am excited.

What hopes do you have for the future of African Fashion?
I am looking forward to an African textile industry that can offer a bigger palette of different fabrics, so that African designers can work with African fabrics that are innovative and at the same time support the local industry

Sarah Ama Duah

EXHIBITORS

FASHION RISING

Alongside the fashion week shows there was also a pop up exhibition over the two days. This included fashion and accessories designers based in Ghana and Europe displaying and selling their work. An interesting clothing brand I came across at the exhibition was Fashion Rising. I absolutely loved the collection featured in their look book, all produced by women in Ghana.

(Above) With founder of Fashion Rising Abrima, Display from exhibit (Below)

Fashion rising was created by Abrima Erwiah alongside actress Rosaria Dawson as part of studio one eighty nine a collective of creatives that seek to provide a platform to promote African inspired work, through various projects and editorials. For example their latest collaboration was with Dossier, an American journal magazine, that featured a portfolio of notable fashion brands either based or produced in Africa for their spring/summer 2013 issue. Allowing their readers to become more aware of the African fashion market, thanks to studio 189.

Sneak peek of their 2013 look book, photographed in New York

The purpose of studio 189 is to help build up a fashion industry within Ghana and other parts of West Africa. Fashion Rising collaborates with individuals in Ghana across the whole commodity chain from production, legal through to photography. For their first look book, they worked with Alan a local photographer, which included local celebrities and musicians modelling the garments.

Abrima mentions, " I want to see a local fashion industry here in Ghana, in the same way we have seen it succeed in the UK, Italy and France. It’s a 37 billion pound industry in the UK, why not have that here."

The inspiration behind fashion rising came from the idea of one billion rising and V-day, a global activist movement to end violence against women and girls. An organisation started by Eve Ensler, who wrote the vagina monologues. She put out a call to action a year ago to say that 1-3 women will be a victim of rape and sexual abuse. After attending a V-day event in the Congo for the opening of city of joy and encountering women who had been through crazy challenges in their lives Abrima decided to set up fashion rising.

I admire the concept of fashion rising and really look forward to seeing how this creative collective continue to progress.

DELLA

Founder of Della & Della MacBook cases designed for Apple

Another interesting fashion line I came across was Della, a label founded by Tina Tangalikis from Los Angels . Della is an ethical fashion line that provides jobs, education and skills training to women and men in Hohoe, in the Volta region of Ghana where their factory is based. The brand has already collaborated with urban outfitters in LA, partnered with Apple to create MacBook cases and have more recently teamed up with American footwear manufacturer Vans, to create printed Vans trainers. Very impressive, I like how Della similar to fashion rising are using fashion as a tool to give back to the community.

MORE PICTURES FROM EXHIBITION

Tash o'rnee from Nigeria

Tash 'Ornee Accessories

Bear by UK Childrenswear label, Native Belle Boutique

Me with the lovely Makeba, Designer of Keba Clothing

Ready to exhibit, Nii co- founder of label Della

Clothes for sale

NTAADEPA

Details, Ghanaian based label ntaadepa

Tonisha Tagoe from Umedia Films, wears a jumpsuit by ntaade pa

I had an opportunity to have a short interview with the creative director of ntaadepa Frema Oppong.

What does 'ntaadepa' mean for those who may not know and how long have you been running your label for?

Well "ntaadepa" simply means good clothes in "Twi" its a term my friends always use to give me because I was always sewing and designing clothes. After completing my degree in textile design at the Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology I decided to set up my own clothing business.

I have been in business for just over a year now.

Who were your mentors growing up within design?

One of my mentors growing up was Ghanaian couture designer called Kofi Ansah, who has a studio now based in Osu. I always loved how he mixed traditional African print and kente with his womenswear garments, I went to work in his studio after completing my degree in textiles to get some industry experience. After working there, I set up ntaadepa.

What is your hope for the future of African fashion within Ghana and your brand?

Well I hope that more designers will continue to promote the use of African prints within their designs. At the moment, most Ghanaian businesses have introduced a concept called "Friday wear" that means colleagues have to wear an African printed clothing every Friday. I think this is a great concept because designing in Ghana I have found that a lot of the younger generation are more inspired by European styles and American culture so don't necessarily want to wear printed cloth. Which is fine, but I feel, as Ghanaians we design such beautiful textiles so should embrace this. As for the ntaadepa brand, I hope to eventually expand my network within the African continent and hopefully Europe. My dream would be to eventually mass produce my clothing and be shipping my garments to boutiques internationally.

VIP EVENING

The last night of Ghana fashion and design week, all the designers, and exhibitors were invited to a champagne reception at Villa Monticello, a hotel in the city of Accra. French winery Moet and Chandon sponsored the evening, the official sponsors of Ghana fashion and design week. This added a sense of glamour to the evening, there was a bar located by the poolside with lots of free champagne and a photographer from Moet and Chandon taking pictures as guest arrived.

For the VIP evening I decided to wear my own designs, a light gold and creme Lurex knitted dress, with a viscose and silk knitted gold broche necklace. Everyone seemed to compliment my outfit during the evening. I was glad to have an opportunity to model some of my designs, hopefully next year I can showcase my knitwear designs on the catwalk.

Catching up with one of the exhibitors at the VIP night

Wearing my own knitwear designs( S.Kludje). A lurex knitted dress and handcrafted knitted necklace.

Ceramic sign post by Ghana fashion Week sponsors Moet

Overall I enjoyed my experience attending Ghana fashion week. I discovered some amazing designers and artists such as label 1981 and Sarah Ama Duah that are really pushing the boundaries in terms of what we consider to be African fashion. Incorporating their backgrounds studying and living in Europe with their Ghanaian heritage to form a new design aesthetic, which is exciting to see. Along with Ghanaian based designers such as Frema Oppong, who encourage the use of traditional African textiles within the designing process.

With social enterprises and creative partnerships such as Della and Studio 189 continuing to draw inspiration from the African continent, as well as other support structures such as Radford college. I can predict the Ghanaian fashion industry will only continue to progress further.

Wednesday, 9 September 2015

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Monday, 14 October 2013

Ghana Fashion and Design Week

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